![]() ![]() When a room temperature aluminum platen is used under a flash cure, initially it draws heat away from the shirt, which results in a longer flash time. The reason rubber is added to aluminum platens is to soften the printing surface. Technically, you can do the exact same print on a manual as an automatic but, you have to be consistent and a human being is just not as consistent as a machine. These are all the things that cause that visual difference between a print on a manual vs. ![]() It produces a bulletproof print and you get the buildup problems on the back of the screens, which causes fuzzy edges wherever there are overlapping ink colors. It is a lot easier to force ink through a 110 mesh. Nothing should be printed with 110, but people print with screens that are not tensioned tightly enough and they get tired. The most common mesh in a manual screen print shop is 110 monofilament and that is the worst possible mesh for printing anything, except for white football numbers. The other element, which also is related to our human frailty, is that most prints should be done with finer meshes. A human being isn’t capable of doing that for any sustained period of time. If you ride the blade of the squeegee on the print edge then you are going to get a good print through the proper mesh. The key to getting a good print is consistent speed, angle, and pressure. Human beings have distractions and get tired. In that case, the automatic always does the better job because it doesn’t have the human factor. In general, the print should feel as much like the garment as possible and be comfortable to wear. ![]() Other people feel if you can’t feel a breeze through the print then is not a good-quality print so who is to define what is a good-quality print is? Some people buy their prints by the pound and if they are not thick and shiny, then they think it is a bad-quality print. ![]()
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